Some beaches demand an itinerary — surf lessons at nine, boat tour at noon. This cove demanded nothing at all. I arrived for one night and stayed for six, and the most strenuous decision of the week was which palm to read under.
Finding your own cove
Look for the beaches the day-trip boats skip: the ones past the headland, the ones with no jetty, the ones where the only facilities are shade and patience. Ask the harbour keeper, not the hotel desk. Bring water, bring fruit, and bring twice the time you think you need.
The daily rhythm
Swim before breakfast while the water is glass. Read through the heat. Walk the tideline at four, when the light turns everything honey-coloured and the fishermen come in. Eat whatever the beach grill has; it will be the freshest thing for miles because there is nothing else for miles.
Leave it as you found it
Coves this quiet stay quiet because visitors carry everything out. I pack a spare bag for other people's bottles on the last day — a small toll for six days of paradise. More shoreline escapes live in The Seas collection.
Wren Aldana
Travel writer behind Lantern Trails. Walks far, packs light, always carries a spare notebook.
